For a spectacular swim in a natural pool at the base of a 180m-high waterfall, or to abseil down its face Adventure sports, take a trip out of town to the Juan Curí waterfalls. Take a bus to Charalá (30min) from Calle 10 on the east side of the bridge, and ask to be let off at the Las Cascadas sign. From here it’s a 25-minute walk to the waterfalls along either of the two trails.
Attractions surrounding Villa de Leyva include giant fossils, archeological sites, nature reserves and a town specializing in local crafts. They can be reached on horseback, by bicycle, bus or taxi or via a tour. If making an arrangement with a taxi, make sure the driver knows exactly which sites you want to see, and agree on the price beforehand.
Tiny Ráquira, 25km from Villa de Leyva to the west, is famous countrywide for its pottery. If you’re looking for crafts to take home, besides perusing the many pottery workshops, you can raid the craft shops around the main square for hammocks, jewellery, woodcarvings and ponchos. Sunday is market day and a particularly good time to visit.
Around 15km north of town, the large nature reserve of El Santuario de Iguaque has excellent hiking. It’s named after the park’s most sacred lake, Laguna de Iguaque – believed by the native Muiscas to be the birthplace of humanity – which can be visited as a day-trip; there are eight lakes altogether in the park at an altitude between 3550m and 3700m, and it can be cold and wet (the best time to come is Jan, Feb, July & Aug), so come equipped accordingly.
Also known as El Infernito, this Muisca observatory, dating back to early centuries AD and located around 2km on from El Fósil, is Colombia’s answer to Stonehenge. Pathways run between the 115-odd stone monoliths, the larger ones strongly resembling enormous stone phalluses. The Muisca used to decide when to start planting crops by measuring the length of the shadows between the stones.
The arid desert highlands surrounding Villa de Leyva attract trekkers, but 120 million years ago the huge flood plain would have been better suited to scuba diving. The ocean waters have since retreated, leaving the country’s largest repository of fossils. Five kilometres out of town along the road to Santa Sofía, the star of the El Fósil museum is the most complete fossil of a 120-million-year-old baby kronosaurus, a prehistoric marine lizard found by a campesino here in 1977. The 12.8m-long lizard is one of only two in the world excavated in its entirety, but on display you’ll find it without the 5m tail, which was lost.
Tucked against the foot of spectacular mountains, scenic VILLA DE LEYVA, founded in 1572, is a must-see showcase of colonial architecture. The untroubled ambience and mild, dry climate make it a perfect place to relax – sitting in the 400-year-old plaza drinking sangria, you’ll be able to appreciate why many describe it as Colombia’s most beautiful town. In the mountains around (see Around Villa de Leyva), you can go hunting for fossils, or enjoy the countryside on horseback. The narrow streets throng with day-trippers from Bogotá on weekends, but the rest of the time, this lovely town reverts to its former tranquil, timeless self.
Villa de Leyva looks and feels immaculately preserved, right down to hand-painted tiles prohibiting horseback riding and car traffic along the main plaza. A lively market, mostly featuring fruit, veg and clothing, is held in the Plaza de Mercado on Saturday morning.
The town plays host to two spectacular annual festivals. The larger is the Festival de Luces (Festival of Lights; Dec 6–8), a fireworks extravaganza that gathers the best of the region’s pyrotechnicians, while the popular Festival de las Cometas (Kite Festival; Aug) sees the country’s finest kite-flyers compete in a variety of categories as spectators shout encouragement. There are also smaller festivals, including foodie-friendly Festival Gastronómico (Sept): ask at the tourist information office for details.
Facing the imposing Monasterio de las Carmelitas and its attached church is the Museo del Carmen, justifiably famous for its collection of religious art. Here you’ll find large numbers of wooden icons from the Church’s early years of proselytizing in the New World, as well as altarpieces and paintings that date back to the sixteenth century.
Facing the imposing Monasterio de las Carmelitas and its attached church is the Museo del Carmen, justifiably famous for its collection of religious art. Here you’ll find large numbers of wooden icons from the Church’s early years of proselytizing in the New World, as well as altarpieces and paintings that date back to the sixteenth century.
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